
“Travel is the only treasure that never fades.” ~ Anthony Bourdain
It feels like it’s taken me almost as long to write this blog post as it did to get to Panamá. Okay, okay… I might be slightly exaggerating, because while the blog post is several months late, getting to Panamá took over 15 years from when it first made my list to actually stepping foot in the country. If I had an active real-life bucket list, this trip would have crossed an item off for me, and it’s my 25th country to have visited.

I’ve been wanting to go to Panamá ever since I first learned about the biodiversity that is unique to this Central American country. Because the country serves as a land bridge between north and south America, there is a massive exchange of species that both reside there year-round but also that migrate back and forth. Add in the fact that Panamá is located in the tropics but also has rainforests, mangroves, cloud forests, and coasts on both the Pacific and Caribbean, and you have a magical wonderland for all things nature.

Besides the creatures and winged things that captured my interest, there’s also a deep history that shapes the country. Panamá has several UNESCO World Heritage Sites (exceptional places recognized for their outstanding universal value to humanity) and we were fortunate enough to visit one of them (Fortifications on the Caribbean Side of Panamá) plus explore several other cultural heritage sites that are uniquely Panamá (Panamá Viejo, Parque Natural Metropolitano, and the Panamá Canal).
If you like Latin culture, history, and flavors, I’d highly recommend adding Panamá to your travel list.

Things We Did
Day 1. Boat Tour through the Panamá Canal. Our first day in Panamá was an early morning to get to the marina for our six-hour canal tour. If you’re going to see the canal, I’d recommend taking the boat tour, because even though it takes more time, it’s worth it to experience being raised through the lock system versus viewing one tiny aspect of the canal from the tourist viewing platform.

The canal was just… cool. Think of it as a water elevator, but with no engines or pumps. It works by using a system of locks to lift and lower ships, connecting them to Gatun Lake, which is where we officially exited the canal. Along our route we saw the Bridge of the Americas and passed underneath it, saw the amazing city skyline, and went through several locks along with large cargo ships going through on either side of us. Experiencing the ingenuity that make this one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World was pretty, well… cool.

- Tip: If your reservation recommends being there 45 minutes early, you might ask more questions. This was highly unnecessary, cut into valuable sleep (up at 4am!), and nothing was open when we got there. Also, double check the location for the tour meet-up, because our original address was incorrect, and we had to get a second uber to take us to the correct spot. It’s not entirely intuitive for this area, but the good news was it felt very safe given it was pitch black dark outside.
- Another Tip: Don’t worry quite so much about your initial seating, because people stand all the time, blocking your view if you do want to stay seated. Plan to move around, to stand your ground, and to deal with some rude tourists.

Day 2. Explored the Parque Natural Metropolitano. Just a short uber ride (20 min?) from Casco Viejo is the city park, aka metro park, aka Parque Natural Metropolitano. This was an unplanned excursion, and came about because one of the number one rules about travel is to remain flexible. We were supposed to go kayaking and birding on this day, but our guide never showed up, and due to weather (downpouring rain much of the days even though we were supposed to be in the beginning stages of dry season), we moved our planned tour to a different day and asked for tips on what we could do instead. This park was highly recommended by several people, so we opted to give it a try. It’s a lush, tropical forest and nature reserve in the middle of the city and is the only city-based natural park in Latin America. It has wonderful hiking trails – we did two moderate and one easy – with lots of steep hills and inclines, and an amazing variety of birds, wildlife and nature. However, it was also so humid that I thought we might die. We hiked probably around 2.5 miles, taking our time for the hills and views, listening to the nearby sounds of the howler monkeys and Mealy Amazon birds, and got caught in a full downpour that made me recall scenes from Romancing the Stone (minus the romance or the stone). This day, while unplanned, was really quite fabulous.
- Birds Identified: 1. Orange-Billed Sparrow, 2. Squirrel Cuckoo, 3. Red-Throated Ant Tanager, 4. Eastern Wood Pewee, 5. Mealy Amazon, 6. Long-Billed Gnatwren.
- Wildlife: Howler Monkeys and Agoutis.

Day 3. Day Trip to Portobelo and Caribbean. We really wanted to see the old forts and the Caribbean waters, so we used a guide company to take us on a very long day trip. The drive through the National Forest area was beautiful with fog and rain, and then the road to Portobelo turned rough and long. My senses were assaulted by our guide who not only continually bombarded us with history using his ultra loud and booming voice but when he wasn’t speaking, his obsession with loud jazzy elevator music and noises made from playing hand percussions on his steering wheel while whistling to the beat made me want to throat punch him on more than one occasion. He was a very nice guy, but had no clue on how to read his audience. Aside from that part of the experience, the boat ride through the Veinas Azules and clear waters connecting to the Caribbean Sea was incredible. We opted to not snorkel, and instead enjoyed the fresh pineapple and mango that our boat driver provided while soaking up some sun and sea.

We stopped at a little spot to get out and walk in the water, and to our surprise, a huge family of howler monkeys showed up. It was mesmerizing to watch them swing around from tree to tree, climbing up and down, and grabbing things to eat. The wildlife box was sufficiently checked. Thinking how fortunate we were to have this experience, we climbed back into the boat to head back to the launch spot and continue on with our day. But the wildlife kingdom wasn’t done with us yet, because much to our delight, on the boat ride back we discovered not one — not two — but three sloths hanging out in trees near the water’s edge. It was so incredible to see them.


After our boating excursion we headed to the town of Portobelo, where the famous explorer/colonizer/enslaver (aka Christopher Columbus) first arrived in 1502. My friend and I both love history that we can see up close and personal, and on our list for this day was to visit the Church of the Black Christ, which was originally built in the 17th century and rebuilt in 1814 after Captain Morgan destroyed it, the Casa Congo, and the Castillo de Santiago de la Gloria, the UNESCO endangered site that was built in 1629 and rebuilt in 1753.

A day trip to Portobelo is well worth it if you’re staying in Panamá City. It makes for a long day but there are lots of options for how you can customize your trip.
Day 4. Birding and Wildlife Spotting on the Pipeline Road. Today was everything I’d hoped it would be and the entire reason I’ve wanted to visit Panamá. Our guides were incredible in both spotting and identifying wildlife, but also in giving us the right amount of history and information. The Pipeline Road is located in the Soberanía National Park, a tropical rainforest and a globally renowned biodiversity hotspot that was originally built during World War II for an unused oil pipeline. It serves as a key scientific research site and a top location for spotting hundreds of bird species (over 400!).

Our guide, Lourdes, worked for the Smithsonian for ten years before becoming a full-time guide, and her knowledge of the forest and fauna, including ant colonies, frogs, and fruit flowers serving brunch for the monkeys, was amazing. We slow-walked the forest path as light filtered down through the thick canopy of leaves, listening for sounds, and using scopes to spot the winged wonders. We got to see both species of monkeys, and enjoyed hummingbirds zipping all around at the Panamá Rainforest Discovery Center. We climbed the 650-foot tall observation tower to enjoy the top of the forest canopy, and even under overcast skies and threats of rain, it was a marvelous experience.


- Birds Identified: 1. Yellow-Rumped Cacique, 2. Mealy Amazon, 3. Grey-Headed Tanager, 4. Scarlet-Rumped Casique, 5. Red-Capped Manakin, 6. Red-Lored Parrot, 7. Spotted Antbird, 8. Slaty-Tailed Trogons, 9. Palm Tanager, 10. Song Wren, 11. Black-Crowned Antshrike, 12.Bright-Rumped Attila, 13. Ruddy-Tailed Flycatcher, 14. Dot-Winged Antwren, 15. Black-Breasted Puffbird, 16. Streak-Chested Antpitta (heard), 17. Brown-Capped Tyrannulet (heard), 18. Squirrel Cuckoo, 19. Chestnut-Backed Antbird, 20. Keel-Billed Toucan, 21. Mangrove Swallow, 22. Tropical Kingbird, 23. Rufescent Tiger Heron, 24. Black-Bellied Whistling Duck, 25. Northern Jacana, 26. Long-Billed Hermit, 27. White-Necked Jacobin
- Other Species: howler monkeys, frog eggs, blue morpho butterfly, hourglass tree frog, capuchin monkey, coati, caiman, agouti

Day 5 (and really, every day). Casco Viejo, Old Churches, and Markets. Panamá Viejo was founded in 1519, and the history is rich with stories of pirates, settlers, destruction and rebuild. We explored the cobblestone streets, the vibrant shops, and historic churches of Casco Viejo a lot, because it’s all right there mixed in and around the hotels we stayed at. We also took an uber to the Mercado de Artesanías de Balboa to see the Guna artisans and authentic molas as well as browse for souvenirs. We had seafood at the Mercado de Marisco at the Cinta Costera Causeway, and took our life in our own hands crossing the highway to wander the fresh fruits and vegetable stalls at the San Felipe Neri Public Market. While we visited most of the old churches in Casco Viejo, the one that stands out is the St. Francis Assisi church, because you can climb the stairs to the top of the tower which provides wonderful views of the surrounding areas and ships out at harbor. The stairs aren’t for the feint of heart, so be mindful of that if this is on your list. And don’t miss the Avenue of Hats and streets decorated with flags – there are a couple of them in the old city, and they’re fun to wander down.


- Birds Identified Out and About: 1. Ruddy Ground-Dove, 2. Brown Pelicans, 3. Great-Tailed Grackles, 4. Great Kiskadees, 5. Great Egret, 6. Great Blue Heron, 7. Magnificent Frigatebirds, 8. Kingfisher, 9. Anhinga, 10. Osprey

Additional Tips:
- The Museo de la Mola is free and interesting to pop into for a brief stop to learn some of the Guna culture and to see their handiwork.
- Most of the churches are free to step inside, but a couple of them do have a nominal fee. It usually cost if you wanted to light a candle.
- Cuban cigars can be purchased here in Panamá. Just don’t tell your customs and border patrol agents upon reentry to the U.S. Look for the guy sitting on an entry way stoop selling straight out of the box, versus the official expensive cigar shop. It’s just as authentic, and more fun to negotiate with the independent seller.

- The Sofitel Legend Hotel has a giant mural you can pop into and take a look at if you like to encounter some local art.
- Victor’s Panamá Hats in Casco Viejo is the spot for your authentic hat and has been around for over 100 years.
- Ubers are a fantastic way of getting around locally in Panamá City. They’re cheap, and felt very secure. Most of the drivers don’t speak English, so be prepared to use your phone for translation if you don’t know Spanish.

Getting There. It was a smooth sailing travel day, everything was on time, and immigration was the sparsest and fastest I’ve ever experienced. We were through the entire immigration and customs system within five minutes. It’s a little bit of a journey from the airport to Casco Viejo, but an easy uber drive and plenty of skyline to look at along the way.

- One note for logistics. We had really wanted to stay one night on the Caribbean side near Portobelo, but kept running into barriers. We didn’t want to rent a car for just a two-day trip but couldn’t find any other feasible options besides multiple bus transfers, which we also didn’t want to do for sake of limited time. In the end, we opted to just do a long day trip with a guide, which worked out well, because once we saw the area we were trying to stay overnight in, we decided it wouldn’t have been what we were hoping for. This is a good example of embracing the travel rule of staying flexible and things always work out.

Lodging. We stayed in Casco Viejo the entire time, changing accommodations just once. Five nights in the old town was probably two nights too many, but it was a good home base for our trip and both of our lodging spots were great.
- Central Hotel Panamá. A larger scale higher end hotel (compared to places I’ve stayed at in other Latin countries) that had wonderful concierge service, fantastic restaurants (their ceviche on the third floor is a must), and if you’re into operatic music, you might get to experience the practices and performances of a local group that used the space daily while we were there. I, for one, was really sick of hearing music from the Phantom of the Opera by the time we checked out, but maybe it’s something you’d enjoy. We never did learn if this was a seasonal thing, who the group was, or why it was in the hotel when the opera house was just down the street. This hotel is centrally located to the main square, and an easy to walk to literally every shop and the waterfront from the front door.
- Las Clementinas. The most adorable boutique hotel, with an incredible restaurant and food, outdoor patio dining if you don’t mind the humidity, and a lovely courtyard to enjoy. Location is still in old town, but a few blocks up from the other location, and not quite as centrally located for exploring. The rooms were spacious, clean, and comfortable, and this was one of my favorite spots I’ve ever stayed at in a Latin country.

The Food. Oh. My. Word. The food. Especially the seafood. I don’t think I can adequately describe the flavors and deliciousness of the seafood that we were able to enjoy. All I know is that if I ever have a long enough layover in Panamá, it would be worth leaving the airport to revisit some of these amazing spots.

- Seafood Ceviche at the Bistro Central Restaurant on the third floor of Central Hotel Panamá. It was divine. Literally the best we had, and we had it several times. The restaurant also serves really hearty and delicious pizzas if you’re craving a bit of comfort food.
- Caribbean Coconut Fish at Mahalo restaurant at the Las Clementinas hotel. Quite possibly one of the best meals I’ve had. We ate at this restaurant for brunch one day, dinner a couple of nights, and breakfast before flying out. The food was outstanding every single meal, and the atmosphere was terrific.
- Fried fish, fried shrimp, calamari, and coconut rice at Casa Congo Restaurante in Portobelo. Not the healthiest, but so fresh and mouth-watering, with an open-air patio to stare at the water and chillax while sipping some drinks and satisfying your hunger.
- Seafood Tacos and Piña Coladas at Marea in Casco Viejo. We ate here a couple of times, mostly because the atmosphere was chill, the drinks were fresh, and tacos were amazing.
- La Promesa at the Mercado de Marisco was good, but there are so many restaurant options it might be overwhelming if you’re already tired.

To wrap it up, Panamá was amazing. It fed my love of nature (forests and oceans), wildlife (sloths plus both kinds of monkeys!) and birds (41 species of birds), and most importantly, it fed my traveler’s soul.










































































